June 28, 2019 Roncesvalles to Zubiri

If I thought that yesterday was terrible, today was brutal. Marie and I set off at 6:00am. It was nice and cool.

The first part of the walk was through a forest. It was so beautiful. The canopy of trees overhead was magical. We chatted, but there were many times when we were lost in our own thoughts.

We stopped for breakfast at s small coffee shop, where most everyone else was stopping. I enjoyed the best ham and cheese croissant and cafe con leche. We then stopped at a little store for some bananas and kept going.

The mood was light. We were enjoying ourselves. In the forest we heard the sound of bells, and came across a herd of horses. It was so beautiful. Then we exited the forest…. and the heat began.

We came across a stream. There were several people with their shoes off, so we joined them. The heat was beginning to set in, and there was no shade.

Let it be known that this is the hottest summer on record. The temperature created 100 degrees, and we were slogging long up one hill and down another. We stopped at a small pub, and I had some Aquarius, which is Spain’s Gatorade.

As we progressed, the path became harder and harder. My John used to refer to me as “bumble-footed”. I tend to fall a lot. Well, I didn’t fall, but that was only by the grace of God. It took us some 10 hours to get to Zubiri.

A group of us had booked an albuergue that had a pool. Marie and I made it into Zubiri, and basically collapsed at a small coffee shop. I was completely done. I really don’t think I could have taken another step. To say that I was close to heat stroke is an understatement.

As I chugged down another Aquarius and a Muesli bar, I heard a familiar accent. My first Aussies! We chatted a bit. They were on holiday, and only had 2 weeks. They were just about as sick as I was, and we consoled ourselves.

Marie and I caught a taxi to the albuergue. Cindy was sitting outside waiting for us. She was so worried because we had taken so long.

After a nice shower and washing of clothes, we were treated to a gourmet dinner. There were 9 of us, very different from the night before. There was Cindy, Marie, myself, Bernard from Canada, Merril from the Netherlands, and 4 gentlemen from Korea. It was a lively affair with the best salad I’ve ever eaten, and delicious baked chicken and potatoes. Yummy. Wine all around.

After dinner we sat around and talked and made plans for the next day. Marie and I decided that we were totally done in, and would take the bus with the French ladies tomorrow to Pamplona. I slept on the top Bunk fairly well.